Getting into Laos
Laos is landlocked and has three international airports that matter, seven land borders worth using and one river crossing that is better than all of them.
The three airports that matter
| Airport | Code | Direct from | Use it for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Luang Prabang | LPQ | Bangkok, Chiang Mai, Hanoi, Singapore, Vientiane, Siem Reap | The north. The best arrival if you are flying |
| Vientiane Wattay | VTE | Bangkok, Hanoi, Ho Chi Minh City, Seoul, Kunming, Singapore | The capital and the centre, and the widest choice of fares |
| Pakse | PKZ | Vientiane, Siem Reap, Bangkok seasonally | The south. Usually reached via Vientiane |
There is no long-haul service into Laos from Europe, North America or Australia. Every arrival connects through Bangkok, Singapore, Hanoi, Ho Chi Minh City, Seoul or Kunming, and Bangkok has by far the most options.
The slow boat, which is our answer
From Chiang Rai in northern Thailand, cross the Mekong at Chiang Khong to Huay Xai, and take the public slow boat two days down the river to Luang Prabang, sleeping at Pakbeng. It costs less than the flight, takes two days instead of one hour, and is the single best thing about arriving in Laos.
It is the opening of several of our trips for exactly that reason. Details, prices and an honest account of the boat are on the slow boat page, including why we will not book the speedboat alternative under any circumstances.
Land borders worth using
| Border | Between | Time | Verdict |
|---|---|---|---|
| Chiang Khong - Huay Xai | N Thailand and NW Laos | 30 minutes to cross | The best. Take the slow boat from here |
| Nong Khai - Vientiane | NE Thailand and the capital | 30 to 60 minutes | Easy, with a through train from Bangkok |
| Chong Mek - Vang Tao | NE Thailand and Pakse | 30 minutes | The quick way into the south from Ubon Ratchathani |
| Nakhon Phanom - Thakhek | NE Thailand and central Laos | 30 minutes | Quiet and simple, good for the Konglor loop |
| Nong Nok Khiene - Tra Pang Kriel | S Laos and Cambodia | 45 to 90 minutes | The natural exit south, with a reputation for informal fees |
| Nam Can - Nam Phao | C Vietnam and Laos | 1 to 2 hours | Usable, and the bus journey either side is long |
| Boten - Mohan | N Laos and China | 1 to 2 hours | Now on the railway, and the busiest freight crossing |
Have USD in small notes, a passport photo, and the exact fee. Informal charges of a dollar or two at land crossings are common and are best dealt with by asking for a receipt politely. Where we take you across, we handle this and you pay nothing unofficial.
The railways
Two railways now serve Laos, and they have changed how people move around the country more than anything else in a generation.
- The Laos-China Railway runs from Boten on the Chinese border through Luang Prabang and Vang Vieng to Vientiane. Vientiane to Luang Prabang takes under two hours. Stations are well outside town centres - 11 km at Luang Prabang, 9 km at Vientiane - and tickets must be bought a few days ahead in high season.
- The Thai-Lao link crosses the Friendship Bridge from Nong Khai, and through services now run from Bangkok to Vientiane's Khamsavath station. It is a slow, comfortable and cheap way to arrive from Thailand.
What the railway does not do is reach the Nam Ou, the Plain of Jars or anywhere south of Vientiane. For most of Laos it remains roads and rivers.
Which arrival we would choose
- From northern Thailand: the slow boat from Huay Xai, without hesitation.
- From Bangkok, short on time: fly direct to Luang Prabang.
- From Bangkok, want the journey: the train to Nong Khai and across to Vientiane, then the railway north.
- From Vietnam: fly Hanoi to Luang Prabang. The overland crossings are long and the buses are poor.
- From Cambodia: the land border at Nong Nok Khiene into the Four Thousand Islands, and work northwards.
Once you are in, getting around covers roads, rivers, domestic flights and the railway in detail.
Questions travellers ask most
Can I fly direct from Europe or Australia?
No. Every route connects, most often through Bangkok, Singapore, Hanoi or Seoul.
Bangkok to Luang Prabang is around two hours and has several daily flights, which makes it the easiest connection to build around.
Is the Bangkok to Vientiane train worth it?
If you like trains, yes. It is an overnight sleeper to Nong Khai and a short hop across the bridge, and it costs a fraction of the flight.
If you are short of days, fly. The journey takes the best part of a day either way.
Which border has the worst reputation?
The Cambodian crossing at Nong Nok Khiene, for informal charges on both sides. It is a few dollars rather than a serious problem, and asking for a receipt usually settles it.
Where we handle the crossing, you pay only the official visa fee.
Do we need onward tickets?
Airlines occasionally ask for proof of onward travel when boarding to Laos, though Lao immigration rarely does.
If you are leaving overland, a printed itinerary from us showing your exit date and border has always been accepted.
Read next
Tell us what you want out of Laos
Dates, party size and the places you care about are enough to start. You get a draft route and an indicative price, not a brochure.